Standard puff pastry must be baked in a very hot oven, around 400F/204C, to get the bursts of steam that raise and separate the pastry layers. In LTB ovens at 250F/121C, any steam is too little, too late and the layers essentially fuse. This version of puff pastry replaces the steam with a heat-based leavener, namely double-acting baking powder, and replaces the layers of butter with layers of a cake flour-based "oil" dough. The dissimilar doughs resist fusion and separate more easily when the heat-based leavener puffs the layers and lifts them apart. The 2 doughs also imbue the pastry with a crisp yet silky texture.
The idea for the 2 doughs comes from Chinese puff pastry. Chinese puff pastry begins with the inner dough shaped into a ball and then covered with a pie crust-like outer dough. The dough ball is then flattened and rolled up like a jelly roll to create layers and flattened again. The procedure is repeated once more, creating a multilayer effect, although not quite the "thousand layers" of fine puff pastry which would require several more roll outs. In my version, I also dispense with the ball stage. The inner and outer doughs are separately rolled out into rectangles first, stacked and then rolled up like jelly rolls.
Whereas the fat in traditional chinese puff pastry is lard, my doughs contain shortening, because none of my local markets stocks lard. My version of the inner dough incorporates a combination of shortening and butter, cut in as in a pie crust. In my experience, pure oil doughs tend to melt and fuse with surrounding layers when baked for long times at low temperatures. Butter provides structure and flavor, while the oil greases the layers and imparts a silkier mouth feel. Many pastries made with Chinese puff pastry do not rise much but are notable for their crispy layers and luxurious taste. Those characteristics can be achieved with this low temperature pastry too.
As I was developing a low temperature puff pastry, I had in mind one particular baked form: a pithivier. Like Chinese mooncakes, pithiviers are a kind of pie, but unlike mooncakes, they can be as large as a full-size pie. The pithivier in this recipe spans 6 inches, which is about as large as my LTB oven will accommodate. I fill it it with quintessential French flavors: apricots and almonds in the form of an easy almond cream and store-brought apricot preserves.
The classic pithivier filling is a firm-textured almond cream or frangipane made with almond flour. For an alternative, I put in an almond-flavored cheesecake batter, thickened with wheat flour and coconut flour. Without the flour thickeners, the filling would be more liquid-y and would spill over the dough before the top could be applied and sealed. Coconut flour, in particular, is excellent for this purpose, because it soaks up more moisture than the same amount of wheat flour. However, it has a stronger taste that can overpower the almond cream. I added only the amount necessary to achieve an acceptable consistency. For those with the inclination, the cheesecake batter could be replaced with an actual frangipane and the apricot preserves replaced with some kind of homemade apricot compote. The recipe makes over 1 cup of filling, when only about 2 tablespoons are needed per pithivier.
In some steps of the Pithivier Method, I show two pictures of the pastry. The second is an apricot-almond cream pithivier with chocolate chips and possibly demonstrating some variation on the method of assembly.
Makes 1 6-inch pithivier
- 770 calories
- Oven Temperature: 250°F/121°C
Puff Pastry: Outer Dough:
- 1/4 cup all purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder (double acting type)
- 1 tablespoon vegetable shortening
- 3 to 4 teaspoons water
- 1/4 cup minus 1 teaspoon all purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon cornstarch
- 1/8 teaspoon green tea powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder (double acting type)
- 1/2 tablespoon butter
- 2 to 3 teaspoons vegetable oil
- 8 oz. cream cheese
- 1/4 cup all purpose flour
- 1/8 cup coconut flour (see text)
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1 egg (large)
- 1 teaspoon almond extract
- apricot preserves
1. Outer Dough: in a medium bowl, whisk dry ingredients until well combined.
2. Dice the shortening or break it into small pieces and add to the flour mixture.
3. With hands, rub the shortening and flour until the mixture forms tiny pebbles or use a pastry blender or fork to cut the butter into the flour.
4. Sprinkle in water, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, tossing and pressing the bits until they are moist and can form a cohesive dough.Shape into a rectangular block. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes.
In my experience, it usually takes just over 3 teaspoons of water to form the dough. Avoid stirring or do it gently so that the gluten bonds don't network and toughen the dough. Avoid over hydrating the dough. Too much water will turn the pastry dough into bread dough.
5. Inner Dough: in a medium bowl, whisk the dry ingredients until well combined. Dice the butter or break it into small chunks and add to the flour mixture.
6. With hands, rub the shortening and flour until the mixture forms tiny pebbles or use a pastry blender or fork to cut the butter into the flour.
7. Sprinkle in the oil, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, tossing and pressing the bits until they are moist and can form a cohesive dough.Shape into a rectangular block. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes. As before, avoid adding more oil than necessary.
9. Shape into a rectangular brick. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes.
10. Layering: unwrap the outer dough and sandwich it between 2 sheets of plastic wrap at least 11 inches long. Flatten the dough into a rectangle by pressing the knuckles against it. This technique helps to minimize cracking when rolling the dough next.
11. Roll the dough out to a 9 x 5 inch rectangle. Set aside.
12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the inner dough.
13. Remove the top plastic from the outer dough and lightly dust with flour. Remove the plastic from one side of the inner dough and stack it on top of the outer dough. Take the top plastic off the inner dough and lightly dust with flour.
14. Beginning at one of the 5-inch sides, tightly roll up the stacked doughs and pinch-seal the flap.
15. Turn the roll around so that the length of the roll is parallel to the length of the plastic sheet with the seam side down. Cover with another plastic sheet.
16. With the rolling pin, flatten the roll by indenting it along the length with the rolling pin. Then roll the dough out to a 9 x 5 inch rectangle.
17. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour. Beginning at one of the 5-inch sides, tightly roll up the dough and pinch-seal the flap. Then cut the roll in half. One half will be formed into the bottom of the pithivier; the other half will be the top.
Pithivier Method:
1. Pithivier bottom crust: Center one of the puff pastry sections (seam side down) between two sheets of plastic wrap (I re-use the plastic from making the puff pastry). Flatten the roll with a rolling pin and then roll out to approximately a 7 inch circle.
2. Cut out a 6-inch circle. The cutter shown above is actually 5-3/4 inches in diameter.
3. Transfer the pastry circle to a greased baking sheet. In the picture above, the baking sheet is the bottom of a removable bottom cake pan. Spread about 2 tablespoons of the almond cream on the dough, leaving a 1/2 inch border.
Optional: sprinkle 2 or 3 teaspoons of mini chocolate chips over the almond cream.
4. Spread a few teaspoons of apricot preserves over the almond cream. Then brush some beaten egg around the dough border.
5. Pithivier top crust: repeat steps 1 and 2 with the remaining section of puff pastry. After cutting out the 6-inch circle of dough, cut out the venting holes and slits. In the picture above, I used mini cookie cutters for a decorative touch. Before transferring the top crust to the pithivier, I removed the decorative cutouts and set them aside.
6. Position the top crust dough over the apricot-almond cream filling and align the edges. Seal the edges by pressing down and around with a fork or spoon.
7. Brush the top crust with beaten egg. In the picture above, I restored the cutouts that were set aside in step 5 before applying the glaze.
8. Bake for about 60 minutes or until the crust is a golden color. Cool. Slice and serve.
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